'Veselé Vánoce!' What goes into a traditional Czech Christmas?

By Line Eskildsen

The Czechs celebrate Vánoce (Christmas) from the December 24 to 26, although the main celebration is on “Štědrý den” (Christmas Eve), which means “generous day”. “St. Mikulas” (St. Nicholas) might have visited the children in the beginning of December, but it is “Ježíšek” (the Jesus child) who brings the presents on Christmas Eve. 

Many Czech customs and superstitions are connected to the dinner on Christmas Eve with the aim of figuring out what the coming year will bring. Although only few of them are still observed today, the customs are an inherent part of a truly Czech Christmas. 

On December 24, according to Czech tradition, Christmas lights can only be put on after the first star comes out and only then can dinner be served. The host needs to ensure that the Christmas table is set for an even number of guests, as an uneven number brings bad luck or might even cause the death of a close relative in the year to follow. In the case that a party has an uneven number of guests, one should set an extra plate. It is important that the plate is not merely symbolic: it needs to be filled with food during dinner as though an invisible guest was present. Practically, tradition also states that the portion can be used in case an unexpected guest drops by or a person in need knocks on the door. 

According to customs, a Czech Christmas dinner shouldn’t be celebrated with alcohol. However, the dinner needs to consist of at least nine different courses. Everyone should finish their serving and inedible leftovers (e.g. pips, seeds, stones, fish bones etc.) should be buried in the garden around trees to ensure that these will bear lots of fruit in the next year. Furthermore, no one can leave the table during dinner, as this will bring bad luck and even death to the family. The first one to get up from the table after dinner will be the first one to die in the coming year, which is why everyone gets up from the table simultaneously. 

It has been tradition to place various foods on and under the table to promote luck, health and fortune. For example, a dish with garlic would typically be placed under the table to provide strength and protection to the dinner party. A bowl of honey on the table was thought to protect the family from evil. 

Mushrooms are thought to bring health and strength, which is why Christmas dinner used to (partly) be composed of “kuba”, a soup made from dried boletus mushrooms, Czech garlic (which is said to have a very sweet taste), onion, barley, marjoram and lard. Today, it’s often served as a lighter lunch on Christmas Day. However, people are told to fast in order to see the “zlaté prasátko” (golden piglet) on the wall just before dinner is served, which those who eat during the day will be unable to see. 

Today, Christmas dinner is most often composed of 3 main courses. The starter will typically be a soup: the “kuba” or “Rybí polévka” (fish), followed by the main course consisting of fried carp served with “bramborovy salat” (potato salad). Every family has their own recipe for their Christmas potato salad; however, the main ingredients are always a mix of potatoes, mayonnaise, carrots, peas, pickled gherkins and boiled eggs. It is said that the best salads have been prepared the day before.

Around Christmas, the squares of major Czech cities will be occupied by tubs with carps and some families will buy their fish several days before Christmas Eve. The carp will then become the household pet for a little while, swimming around in the bathtub, before the big day. Desserts are typically an assortment of “vánoční cukroví” (Christams cookies), “Vánočka” (fruitcake), “pernik na figurky” (gingerbread men) or “štrúdl” (yes, apple strudel). 

Eventually families round off their dinner by singing carols at the table and then move towards the Christmas tree. However, the children will have to wait just a bit longer. They are told to go into a different room, where they’ll be waiting for “Ježíšek” to bring the gifts. He’ll typically enter the house through an open window and put the presents under the lit tree. Children will only be allowed to enter the room after he has jingled a bell. 

Some families finish off Christmas Eve by attending “půlnoční mše” (midnight mass), but often Christmas mass is held during the afternoon on the 24th to be somewhat more family-friendly. 

On Decmeber 25, “Boží hod vánočn” (Christmas Feast) and the 26th, “Sv. Štěpán”, (St Stephen’s day) families typically visit relatives, entertain friends or stay at home and relax.